FAQ and Tips For Kosher Tourists in Paris and France

• Jewish Areas In Paris, there are two major areas with a high concentration of kosher places. One around rue Richer, 9th arrondissement, metro Cadet (north west of Paris), the other around rue des rosiers, 4th arrondissement, metro st paul (very center of Paris). A third one was born this last decade in 19th arrondissement. It has a lot of kosher facilities, but does not so much fit for tourists who prefer a more central place in Paris. In Paris 17th arrondissement, Jewish life has grown a lot these last years, with three shuls, four other shuls and a Beth HaBaD at walking distance in Neuilly Sur Seine and Levallois, a lot of kosher restaurants and "patisseries." This may be useful for people coming for a conference at Palais des Congres in Porte Maillot, or the La Defense Trade Center, or for tourists as well.
• Antisemitism in France :
  Written in 2006: Although things have become more quiet since the previous description below, there are still much frictions in some areas, and it is not adviced to go around alone at night in the metro or some areas, with a kipa or with beard and hat. Since 2002, a lot of people have moved, to Israel of course, but also to canada, or Florida, where even some kosher restaurants have oved from Paris. Image of Israel in the media is much better, epseically since visit of former Prime Minister Ariel Sharon in paris, when many cooperation agreements were sugned beteen France and Israel, for example binational scientific programs.
  Written in 2002: many of you have asked about antisemitism in France. Although President Chirac claimed in January 2002: "there is no antisemitism in France," Jewish institutions have kept a record of hundreds of antisemitic events since September 2000. At the beginning of the so-called second intifada, due to a completely deformed information in the media, Jews have been the target of much violence. A lot of synagogues have been partially or totally burnt (and very recently during Passover 2002, synagogues in Lyon, Strasbourg, Marseille and Nice), rabbis or people looking Jewish, as well as Jewish restaurants, have been attacked, and also people look at you as if you were a children killer, due to what they see on TV. Each time there is a kamikaz attack in a restaurant or bus in Israel, French TVs and radios will immediately show the poor palestinians worrying about retaliation from the Israelis...
  As people have shown, the main source of information for french news is Agence France Presse. This is the only press agency in French, and is also the first provider of news for arab countries. This explains a lot. Also, main French TV and newspapers have hard links with companies with important interests in arab countries. The French government as well, in order to maintain good "money" relations with arab countries shows complete surrender to arab politics. Since 6 millions people in France are from arab origin, they represent 10% of the votes in next elections, 10 times more than Jewish vote.
  This explains that many Jews have been attacked in Paris 19th, Sarcelles or Creteil, which are areas with large Jewish and arab populations living next to each other. Most of the time the police will either ignore the fact or tell about a general problem of violence in youth of poor background, avoiding to mention the origin or names of responsibles. In some cases, after months of inquiry, the police declared that fire took place in some synagogues "by accident." An epidemy of "accidents." People in the French government have the same attitude. As a matter of fact, when there was important antisemitic acts in Jewish cemetaries, like in Carpentras in 1990 or against SYnagogue of rue Copernic or Goldenberg Restaurant, in the early 80's, the whole political parties in France were fully understanding and condemned as much and publicly as possible the antisemitism as being a consequence of the nationalist party "Front National." All large political parties at that time had interest in comdemning this extreme right wing party. In our days, we see much more antisemitic events, of much more importance, and they are totally ignored by political parties since they have no interest in condemning them since their origin is much different.
  In conclusion, be careful to hide your kippa when walking in some areas, and avoid taking the metro at night.
  Here are some questions that many Jews ask themselves here: May be Jews should boycott France for vacation?
  Is it the same in other European countries?
  Maybe French Jews should be prepared to leave? to where
  I would be very interested to hear from people whose family left Europe before the shoah.
  What do you think???
• Some articles on Jewish Life in Paris:
  • Advice and impressions for fellow Jews visiting Paris by David, Petach Tikva, Israel, September 2003.
  • Jewish Paris by Tony Kamins, June 2001.
  • Trip in Kosher Paris by Cheryl Hirsch-Ginsberg, July 2001
  • Sea Change - The Jewish Community of Paris by Abbott Katz
  • Jewish Paris by Paul Jensi
  • Your Jewish Paris by Yourself: Write about your trip in Paris or France and it will be reported here.
• Tourists are generally very interested in visiting some of the old large shuls (rue de La victoire, rue Buffault, rue ND Nazareth, rue Pavee, ...). Look for addresses in the List of shuls in Paris.
  There is a jewish museum 42 rue des saules (north east of the city) ph.: 0142572630.
  In September 1998, the museum of Art and History of Judaism opened in Hotel de St Aignan, 71 rue du temple 75003 Paris, Ph. : 0153018653. There are also some Jewish Paris tours organized. Please tell your experience about Jewish Tours.
• Shuls and Services. In the List of shuls in Paris, most shuls are Sefardic. All listed shuls are orthodox. Most shuls are orthodox (French consistoire or other orthodox communities). As a difference to what happens in the US, this means that at least the rabbi is orthodox, although people going there for services maybe from different backgrounds, orthodox, religious, traditionalist or other. Here are a few Ashkenazi shuls (see complete address and phone in the list of shuls ) : 25, rue des Rosiers, 10 rue Pavée (Rav Rottenberg), 10 rue Cadet (Rav Frankforter), 6, rue Ambroise Thomas (Rashi Shul), 36, rue Basfroi (Rav Schlamme), 31, rue de Montévidéo (Rav Gottlieb), 36, rue des Annelets (Rav Gerstel), 6, rue Jean Nohain (Rav Guggenheim). Here are a few Chabad Shuls : 17, rue des Rosiers, 8 rue Lamartine, 25, rue Riquet. There are Beth Chabad all around Paris, suburb and France.
  When shuls have services everyday, morning service is usually 7am during the week, and 8am on sunday. In winter, first time to put on Tfilin may be as late as 7:30am. Some shuls start service and stop between Ychtabach and Yotser to put on Tfilin, some put on Tfilin earlier without bracha, and just move them to say the bracha between Ychtabach and Yotser, and other just make a later service during winter starting at 7:30 (see Hebrew Calendar and Zmanim). Some Shuls start at 7am only on mondays and thursdays and 15 minutes later on other week days. During Winter, there are some places who make early Mincha between 1:30pm and 2pm. Else, Mincha and Maariv are usually said in a row, separated by sunset in winter and Plag Hamincha in summer (see Hebrew Calendar and Zmanim). A short Dvar Torah maybe said in between. For those who wish a vatikin service, there is one at Beth El (sefardic shul with services and shiurim all day long), 3 rue saulnier, in paris 9th near rue Richer.
• Geographic coordinates. If a city is not listed in the pages for interactive calculation of Zmanim, you can go to Bureau des longitudes (follow "Astro info-- donnees pour le grand public") where you can get the longitude and lattitude for any city in the world. You can also get there sunset and sunrise for any place in the world. You can also use the emacs calendar functions (M-X calendar). Also you could know the time of the total Eclipse of August 11th, 1999 in France (and everywhere you are)
• Mikvaot. Here are the main mikvaot Tahora in Paris:

  176, rue du Temple	75003	01 42 71 89 28
  23 rue Davioud	75016	06 60 13 62 66 01 45 27 32 37
  19-21 rue Galvani	75017	01 45 74 52 80
  2/4, rue Tristan Tzara	75018	01 40 38 18 29
  25 rue Riquet	75019	01 40 36 40 92
  29/31, rue de Thionville	75019	01 42 45 74 20
  43, rue des Abondances	92100 Boulogne-Billancourt	01 46 03 90 63

  There are a few others that are used only for kelim or for men.
• Other Jewish stores, like bookstores, groceries, butchers, ... can be found for example in both rue Richer area (9th arrondissement, Metro Cadet) and rue des Rosiers area (4th arrondissement, Metro St Paul). Click here for a list for Bookstores and Judaica.
• Jewish Newspapers. There are two weekly jewish newspapers, available in kiosques: Actualite Juive and Tribune Juive. Actualite Juive is also available at most kosher butchers and grocery stores. You can find there all community events during the time you visit France.
• Jewish Radio. There is a 24 hours a day Jewish radio station on 94.8 FM in Paris Metro. Most broadcast is in French. A few in Hebrew, Yiddish or Ladino. Most music is in Hebrew, English and French. Many large cities of France also have a Jewish radio. These radios are also available on internet.

• Eruv. It is forbiden to carry on shabbat in France. It is disappointing to see often Israelis with a kipa that carry their tallit in paris to go to shul on shabbat, since they are so used to have an eruv everywhere in Israel. Eruv is not a current thing in France. There is one in Strasbourg which is mainly based on the river. There is no Eruv in Paris. (remember after Soccer cup, July 12th 1998, more than a million people gathered to celebrate on Champs Elysees, which is considered Reshut Harabim Deoraita). Except for private eruvim, the only cities where there has been an eruv are Strasbourg, Reims and Metz. Ask the rabbi there about it.
• Since it is not possible to walk with a map in Paris on shabbat, notice that you can find precise local maps on the back of advertising posters in the streets. It is written in the bottom "Plan au dos" which means "map on the back." You also have less precise maps at bus stops.
• Times for shabbat candle lighting and shabbat end, as well as other zmanim like Tfilin, shema, Noon and Plag Hamincha are available on my page on Hebrew Calendar and Zmanim. You have either a pdf file with complete tables for the whole year in Paris or an interactive calculation by giving the date and location as input (this includes most large cities in France). Be careful to read there remarks about Summer Saving Time.
• Shabbat Evening Service. There are shuls that make kabbalat shabbat at a different hour each week, following candle lighting time. They usually start mincha at about candle lighting time. There are other shuls that make kabbalat shabbat at a fixed hour, usually between 6:30pm and 7:30 pm in winter and between 7:30 and 8:30 in summer. The time for Plag Hamincha is the earliest for saying Maariv and candle lighting. In summer, this may be as late as 8:15pm while last time for candle lighting is 9:45pm. In such cases, most shuls start shabbat at the earliest time possible, and you have to light candles also at the earliest time possible. At chabad services, where they do not say maariv before night, they start shabbat at the latest time possible even in summer. In case of need, you may start shabbat at the latest time by associating with a chabad community.
• Shabbat Morning Service. Morning Service usually starts at 9am. Be careful that in Sefardic Shuls, service is much longer than what you may be used to in ashkenaz shuls in America for example. Since Psukei DeZimra are actually sang, and Kryat HaTora slower, the service usually ends at Noon. It may go on till 12:30 when there are many mossifim for a Bar Mitswa or wedding and when a Dvar Torah is given. In some shuls, a Dvar Torah is given during kiddush that is served afterwards. In Batei Midrash, sevice usually starts at 8:30 or 8:45 and goes faster in order to give a Tora Shiur at around 11am either before or after mussaf.
• Shabbat Afternoon Service. Mincha is usually 1:30 to 2 hours before shabbat ends. It is followed by a shiur and/or Seuda Shlishit and Maariv at night.
• For Achnassat Orchim, send me email and I ll try to help you. you can also call HaBaD centers at 01 46 24 70 70 in Neuilly or
  Jeunesse Loubavitch (Chabad) : 8 rue Lamartine (Rav Asimov) 01 45 26 87 60.
• Hotels: In the List of Kosher Restaurants in 9th arrondissement there are three Kosher Hotels : Aida, Lebron and Touring and in Paris 10th, Art Hotel. and there are BethEl synagogue (be careful, Shul is at 3 rue saulnier and meals are at 10 rue saulnier), Les ailes and Manne in which you can have prepaid shabbat meals. Here is the list of kosher hotels and restaurants for shabbat meals:

  Art Hotel	98 rue d'Hauteville	75010	01 45 23 85 00 fax 01 45 23 85 05	BethDin	Hotel *** avec Petit Dejeuner Cachere; *** Hotel with Kosher breakfast
  Hotel Aida Opera	17 rue du Conservatoire	75009	01 45 23 11 11	BethDin	Hotel avec Petit Dejeuner Cachere; Hotel with Kosher breakfast
  Hotel Geoffroy Marie Opéra	12 rue Geoffroy Marie	75009	01 47 70 11 85 fax 01 42 46 09 36	BethDin	Hotel *** avec Petit Dejeuner Cachere; *** Hotel with Kosher breakfast
  Hotel Lebron	4 rue Lamartine	75009	01 48 78 75 52 fax 01 49 95 94 64	BethDin	Hotel Cachere
  Hotel Touring La Table du Touring	21 rue Buffault	75009	01 48 78 09 16 01 48 78 00 51 fax 01 48 78 27 74	BethDin	Cuisine Francaise. Kosher Hotel with shabbat meals. Across the street from Synagogue
  Synagogue Beth El	3bis et 10 rue saulnier	75009	01 47 70 09 23 fax 01 45 23 10 75 01 45 23 34 89	BethDin	Repas Shabbat payes a l'avance; Prepaid meals for Shabbat: Vendredi Soir: 20 Euros; Samedi Midi 15 Euros
  Les Ailes	34 rue Richer	75009	01 47 70 62 53	BethDin	oriental. Open on Shabbat: see Website
  Manne	26 rue de Trevise	75009	01 48 00 03 06	Orthodox	Gastronomie Internationale Glatt;Repas Shabbat payes a l'avance (avant jeudi); Prepaid meals for Shabbat (before thursday)25 Euros par personne et par repas.
  Essen Bensh	8 rue Pavee	75004	01 42 71 50 00	Orthodoxe	Brasserie; Salon de The prepaid Shabbat meals may be possible Cafe theatre Juif

  
  In Richer and Rosiers areas you can find a lot of (non kosher) hotels. For example look in yellowpages or Paris Pages for a hotel in paris 9 on rue de montyon, or in Paris 4 in rue pavee, rue Mahler, rue de Rivoli. Hotel Opera Cadet, in rue cadet has been oftenly quoted as a very nice and convenient hotel in richer area. For example click here are some hotels in Richer area. Notice that as in most large cities of the world, there are many problems with hotels on Shabbat. When there is an electric door to enter the hotel, arrangements can be often found, like keeping the door open at some hours of the day, or passing by a backyard entrance. It is more difficult when there are automatic lights that are put on when you enter a corridor or your room or when you have electric cards used as keys. In some hotels, you have to put your card in a special device at the entrance of the room to put on electricity in the room. In this case you may ask a second key that will stay all shabbat in the device in order to leave the bathroom light on for example. In many hotels, they know about it and will come to help you if you tell them in advance. Ask your rabbi what is permisible or not.
• There is a lot of restaurants in the List of Kosher Restaurants that have take out meals for shabbat on friday, especially oriental restaurants (Tunisian, Morrocan,...).
  Many restaurants or caterers can deliver meals at your hotel or conference hall. For example you can contact a glatt kosher caterer (beth din and lubavitch) Kasharel by email , fax 33-1 42 06 69 46 or by phone at 33-1 48 40 86 34 or 33-6 61 14 13 45
• For long stays in Paris, I have no experience of these links but they should be useful (If you have information, especially in a community context, tell me about it and I'll include it here) : www.paris-apts.com , www.apartments-of-france.com , www.locaflat.com , www.psparis.com , www.vacances.com , www.guidevacances.com , www.locanet.com , locations.pierre-vacances.fr/ete/fr/frame-paris.html .

• Birkat HaIlanot in Nissan: A good place to go is Jardin d'acclimatation at Metro Sablons on line 1. This is a nice park for children with nice bears, birds and farm animals. Just between the farm and the bears, you have a little garden with different fruit trees.
• Pesach : To find a community seder, you can either call Habad (01 45 26 87 60 in Paris, 01 46 24 70 70 in Neuilly), go to the kosher hotels, or restaurants that have prepaid meals, or to the Paris community center (phone 01 53 20 52 52) or other community centers (see above and all adresses in the restaurant list). Some Shuls have a community seder. Many vacation places are organized for Pesach, with everything, but this changes every year. A list can be obtained about a month before in jewish newspapers, or advertisements at groceries and butchers.
  Hand made Matsot Shmurot from Israel may be obtained at
  Jeunesse Loubavitch (Chabad) : 8 rue Lamartine (Rav Asimov) 01 45 26 87 60.
  A list of KosherLePessah food is made available by BethDin de Paris a few weeks before Pessach.
  On Chol Hamoed, many restaurants are open since much of their income comes from catering for Shabbat and Yom Tov. So it is worth it for them to kosher the place even for a few days. Of course, for fastfood, pizza and pasta places, it is not so much worth it and they should be closed. Be careful that many restaurants, for example those of tunisian cuisine, can give you meals with kitniot and rice. Also, Since a large part of the community is Sefardic, many kosher le pessah products with hashgacha contain kitniot.
• August : Many shuls and restaurants close during august. Thus you should call before going to some place. If you go to an area with many restaurants like rue des rosiers or rue richer, there is no problem to find open places in august.
• Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur: due to the higher number of people coming to shul, many communities have to either make reservation for seats or even rent hall rooms in hotels or theaters. You have to care about it a long time in advance and call a shul to have information, especially for Yom Kippur, if you plan to be there.
• Sukkos : Most shuls have their own sukka where you can bring and eat your meal. During Chol Hamoed, most restaurants are open, but very few have a sukkah. Many people have a meal or pizza delivered from a restaurant to their shul's sukka. Arba Minim can be obtained at shuls, Beth Habad, or in the street on rue Richer or rue des rosiers right after Rosh Hashana, where people put booths on the sidewalk.

Autres Sites; Other Links

• World Kosher Restaurant Database
• Liste des poissons Cachere : Kosher Fish in French.
• kashrut.com
• Kosher products from all around the world
• vote for the best restaurant
• A Jewish Virtual Community in Paris
• Liste des synagogues à Paris
• Torah et Judaïsme sur Internet

Merci de nous aider a ameliorer cette liste en signalant toute erreur ou omission a David Cohen.
Nous nous efforçons de mettre a jour cette liste le plus souvent possible; cependant, nous prions nos lecteurs de verifier aupres des restaurants qu'ils sont toujours sous la surveillance rabbinique annoncee.
Mentionnez aux restaurants que vous avez eu leur adresse par KOSHER.ONLINE.FR!

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